Buying Healthy Koi The role of the dealer A specialist Koi dealer examines and treats his Koi for obvious health problems ensuring they are as fit and healthy as possible before displaying them for sale. No dealer would do less or he would soon have no customers. Consider then that the dealer has to take on trust to some extent that the hobbyist who buys those Koi will know how to care for them properly before making the purchase. A dealer cannot question every customer's level of experience before making a sale although they will discreetly ask questions particularly of new customers to make sure that a pond is not overstocked and that water quality is understood. Variety is the spice of life The novice Koi-keeper often blames the dealer when something goes wrong only to discover when more experienced the dealer was not at fault. Most hobbyists appreciate that a good relationship with a dealer creates a solid foundation for the hobby. Confusion arises particularly for those new to the hobby when two or three dealers are consulted and each recommend a totally different approach to just about every aspect of Koi-keeping. As long as a piece of equipment does the job or make life easier for the Koi-keeper or is aimed at better pond conditions such purchases are all a personal choice . Methods of tackling a particular health problem that proves to be at odds with guidance given elsewhere also adds to this confusion. It is important to appreciate there are many possible ways of arriving the same end result a healthy Koi pond. The only issues that should remain black and white are those relating to Koi health and the scientific principles that underlie the Koi-keeping hobby. The selection process Koi-keepers need no help in choosing fish that catch the eye. Most hobbyists do not want show winning Koi, they want friendly fish with individual characteristics that can be tamed into hand feeding pets. After all, grand champions are beyond the budget of most. When choosing Koi price, health and appearance are the prime factors but often the dealer and premises greatly influence the final decision to buy. Choosing a dealer What really matters about any Koi dealership is the level of knowledge and experience of the staff. Irrespective of whether you favour a large aquatic centre or a smaller home based outlet, do not be mislead by unimportant factors such as the elegance of the décor . It is immaterial whether customers walk on a red carpet or a stone floor. A free bag of Koi food is an incentive to purchase not an assurance of quality in the Koi or the service. All that glitters is not gold and, whatever draws you to any outlet, the quality and health of the fish on sale should be uppermost in your mind closely followed by the service the owner and the staff are able to provide. A dealer who is certified as Biosecure is a wise choice. On display The conditions Koi are housed in are important tanks should never be overcrowded as this creates water quality problems and adds to the stress and the risk of disease. Large amounts of waste matter visible on the bottom of display tanks if observed frequently is a sign of poor management. Sick fish or those in treatment should not be offered for sale but allowances must be made for a very recent health problem such as injuries. Split fins caused by handling are not within the dealers control and carp pox is unavoidable and not regarded as a serious problem. Inspection bowls for a closer look at Koi should be available but netting is stressful and damaging so never ask to examine any fish you are not considering purchasing. A better inspection is possible once the Koi is in the plastic transport bag. Do not purchase Koi with any abnormality It sounds obvious not to buy fish with any body lesions but occasionally skin damage is not apparent and Koi markings can conceal an injury or ulcer. A tiny abrasion commonly the result of the importation usually heals without complications but whatever is being observed may also be the early stages of an ulcer or something worse. No matter how superficial skin damage appears it is wiser to leave the Koi at the dealers and return later to see how the blemish improves. This applies also if the skin is milky or excess mucus is evident. In addition observe the gill covers or operculum and ensure they touch the body as they close. The gill rate varies with water temperature but Koi with too slow or an excessively fast gill action is easy to identify. Avoid Koi with spilt or damaged fins Fins are easily damaged and whether they heal and the membrane regenerates depends on the severity of the problem and if a secondary infection develops. Water borne bacterial infection, ammonia burn during transportation, systemic disease in the Koi, loss of function of a fin through injury and splits caused by handling are amongst the possibilities. The novice should avoid all Koi with damaged fins those more experienced may learn to tell these various conditions apart. A clean split in fin membrane stands more chance of healing without infection in warmer water temperatures. The pectoral fins in juvenile Koi are very delicate and at dealers premises you will observe many small Koi with split fins due to handling rather than disease. Erosion of the fin edges and inflammation usually suggest bacterial infection. The ventral fins and anal fin are often inflamed if the Koi spends time on the bottom and they are easily infected. Look for normal behaviour Koi that dart suddenly may be nervous after importation and should be left to settle. Those that hover near the surface or spend time in the oxygen supply or resting on the bottom are also not a good choice. It is wise to avoid purchasing Koi from any tank in which several Koi are all lethargic. However in cold weather Koi are often seen lying on one side on the bottom of dealer's tanks with no sign of life. As soon as the weather warms up they behave normally, this is not a health problem just a normal reaction to variations in temperature often more pronounced in newly imported Koi but hobbyists should avoid buying too early in the season. Flicking or flashing Flicking and flashing can indicate poor water quality but at trade premises parasites are also a likely irritant. Most Koi carry some body fluke or Trichodina but at low level these parasites need no treatment. If you still want to buy call back in couple of weeks, which gives the dealer time to investigate the cause and remedy it. Avoid certain display tanks Koi often injure them so the odd abrasion or scale loss is not an issue just avoid that particular fish when making your choice. However if Koi are displayed as being for sale in a tank in which many ulcerated Koi with open wounds are also housed then it is wiser not to buy any of the Koi at from that tank. Passports please. Koi are imported from many countries and therefore health problems can vary along with the immune response of Koi because of their unique genetic history. Dealers should be honest about the country of origin of the fish they sell. Breeding is a very different skill to rearing Koi and fry are often supplied in one country and reared in yet another. Koi nowadays are well travelled yet without passport or a medical record card to help keep track of their origins. Ask when the Koi were imported The date of the importation of a Koi can suggest how acclimatised it is at the time of sale. The longer the dealer has stocked the Koi the safer the fish is in respect of some health risks but it still has to undergo that final move that can trigger off problems. The age of a Koi is important to some hobbyists Those Koi-keepers who breed or show their fish need to know the age of a Koi before purchase. This helps to assess when the fish has reached sexual maturity or top breeding condition or even show winning potential. The conditions in which Koi live and their diet affect longevity but an average lifespan in U.K. is 25 years. The gender issue Some Koi-keepers keep their male and female Koi in separate ponds for greater control. The prime reason for segregation is to prevent the damage that females endure during spawning in mixed sex ponds if the ratio of males to females is not balanced problems can result. For the purchaser the best method of sexing Koi still remains visual. The body shape of females is evenly rounded towards the rear of the body and the pectoral fins are usually smaller and often less well defined. Males are a more streamline torpedo shape with larger pectoral fins. Dealers and acclimatisation All trade premises have cross-infective risks because of the numbers of Koi stocked. It must be appreciated that no dealer can complete the full process of acclimatisation for any Koi. Adjustment to new environments involves complex biochemical reactions in Koi until they fully adapt and can be regarded at less risk of developing health problems. The time acclimatisation takes varies fish to fish and is greatly influenced by the conditions in which the fish are transported and housed as they progress around the Koi distribution network. Caution when buying from a Koi show Koi shows present additional health risks so buy from a known Koi dealer who can be contacted after the event. Ensure the dealers water is filtered look for the pipe that returns water to the vat. In addition the use of air stones in the vat makes any purchase safer. Reserve and call back to collect your Koi when you leave the show. Do not carry fish around all day in a bag or leave them in your car. Ask for a box never transport Koi in just a plastic bag. Obviously the bag can burst and being inflated with oxygen it goes with a bang if, for example, hot cigarette ash is in contact. All boxed up A box affords greater insulation against temperature fluctuations and keeps the Koi calmer for the journey home. Position the box transversely across the axle in the car boot so as to minimise the motion of the water. Koi are more stressed at shows as such events involve recent transportation and fluctuations in all water parameters. This commonly triggers off whitespot, a parasite often carried by Koi sub-clinically. Temperature changes make this a common health problem in Koi bought from or exhibited at shows. When you get your new Koi home Partial acclimatisation is the first stage of the long process of adjustment which begins when Koi are floated to equalise the water parameters in the bag with those in the quarantine tank. Once the temperature is the same, introduce a little tank water into the bag until the pH is also identical. In very hot weather or if you are concerned the oxygen may be getting low in the bag after a long journey the floatation can be carried out in a bowl instead of the bag. Partial acclimatisation minimises stress but does not take the place of quarantine. Healthy Koi are priceless Off colour is a good description of a sick Koi as normal skin colouration and skin lustre are indicators of good health. In behavioural terms, shoaling together, vitality and good appetite are all very positive signs. As well as good looks a pond needs personality and Koi such as Chagoi pass on their trust in humans to other fish creating a pond of friendly pet Koi. Beauty is all in the eye of the beholder so what really matters are the qualities that make you want to give a particular Koi a home in your pond.